(In the photo above, you can see that I added more cornichons than I call for in the recipe. Mistake.)

The weather is cooler than it was last week. The air carries a hint of autumn. I can contemplate cooking in my kitchen tonight for the first time in a long time.

Tonight I bought two “country-style pork ribs”, which, as far as I can gather, means only a chunk of pork butt. In his Kitchen Diaries, p. 51, Nigel Slater created a recipe for pan-fried pork chops with mustard sauce. He cooked for two. I’ll make it for one.

Here’s how I prepared it for myself.

One 1/3-lb country-style pork rib

olive oil

half cup of white wine

one small shallot, finely chopped

2 tsp whole grain mustard

2 tsp dijon mustard

3 cornichons (gerkin pickles), finely diced

1/4 cup heavy cream

salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 350. Heat about 2 Tbl of olive oil in a heavy-bottomed skillet over a medium-high flame. When it’s hot, place the pork in the oil and sear it on all sides for a total of 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer with tongs to a plate and place in the oven to continue cooking for another few minutes, depending on how thick the pork is. If you’re using a thick pork chop or country-style pork rib, leave in the oven for about 5 to 8 minutes. Thinner cuts for about 5 minutes. Remove before you think it’s cooked through and cover with foil so that the internal temperature will continue to rise while you make the sauce.

Meanwhile, reheat the skillet that you cooked the pork in. Add another slug of olive oil, if the pork was too lean to render much fat. Add the minced shallots and sauté for about a minute or two. Pour in the half cup of white wine and scrape up the burned bits on the bottom. In a small bowl, mix together the mustards and a little bit of cornichons liquid. Add to the skillet and let reduce. Pour in 1/4 to 1/3 cup of heavy cream. Keep stirring it as it reduces and thickens. Toss in finely minced cornichons. Season with salt and pepper to taste. When the sauce is thickened, remove from heat.

Slice up the pork or leave the chop whole and spoon sauce over it. Serve immediately.