Who doesn’t like cookies? My sister, for one, but practically everyone else does. They make a wonderful gift to bring to a party instead of or in addition to a bottle of wine. The friends at the monthly circulating cocktail party I belong to enjoyed these Italian almond cookies. Several people tried to pocket a few to take home at the end of the evening. A good sign.
My favorite cookie book is Martha Stewart’s. But, in this case, if the rest of the collection turns out as well as this first attempt, then Mona Talbott’s Biscotti is going to run a close second, a tie with Carol Field’s Italian cookies. Talbott’s recipes hint at how underrated Italian cookies are. My own impression, at any rate, had been that they tend to be bland. And in all the years I visited Italy I ate nothing that dissuaded me of that impression. Good bakers are hard to find in Italy. Yet, when you find them, good Italian cookies are satisfying in a minimalist way.
I doubled the recipe proportions, because 1 1/2 egg whites seems a bit too fussy and I knew I’d find enough people to eat a double batch. So, the amounts below represent double proportions.
I have a couple of suggestions to supplement the simple and clear instructions…
For about 50 cookies
500g / 18 0z blanched almonds
400g / 2 cups granulated sugar
6 g / 2 tsp ground cinnamon
2 g / 1 tsp lemon zest
3 egg whites, lightly beaten
50 or a few more whole blanched almonds
Preheat oven to 180 C / 350 F.
Pulse the almonds and sugar in a food processor until the almonds are chopped medium fine.
Shadowcook: It’s okay if there are big bits of nuts. The pulsing took longer than I expected.
Transfer the nut-sugar mixture to a medium-size mixing bowl. Add the cinnamon and lemon zest and mix well. Gently fold in the lightly beaten egg whites until well incorporated.
Shadowcook: I put the egg whites in the Kitchenaid mixer with the whisk attachment. I turned the mixer on to medium and whisked the whites until they were frothy but not solid white, about 1 minute.
Roll the dough into 28 small balls (18 g / 3/4 oz) and top each cookie with a blanced almond.
Shadowcook: Rolling the balls is a lot easier if your hands are wet.
Transfer the cookies to cookie sheets lined with parchment paper, spacing them 2 cm / 3/4 inch apart.
Bake for 10 minutes. the cookies will be light in color and will form a nice crust as they cool.
Shadowcook: Be prepared to leave them in a oven longer than 10 minutes. You won’t be able to tell if the cookies are done cooking by touching them. If you want to be sure that you cook them the proper amount of time for them to finish cooking, try baking one ball on its own for 10-15 mins. My oven’s temperature is such that I wound up baking the cookies for 15 minutes.
And it’s true that cooling cookies on a rack is where the crust forms. Cooling is almost as important a step as baking in bringing a cookie to perfection.
These cookies will keep for up to 2 weeks in a sealed container.