NYT’s Tongue with Capers and Cornichons

from The New York Times

It wasn’t my intention to execute two offal recipes in a row (seriously, no pun intended). But when Sherry sent me a text to ask if I wanted the tongue of the steer she and Dan had just had slaughtered that day, I leapt at the opportunity to try a recipe that appeared in the NYTs in September. Tongue is not for everyone, I admit. My mother used to make it when I was growing up. In my early 20s, I had a memorable meal at a Moroccan restaurant somewhere in Detroit that included a plate of lamb tongues lightly covered in a creamy lemon sauce. Bistro Jeanty in Napa serves a lamb tongue salad that won my loyalty forever to that wonderful restaurant. Over the years since then, I’ve tried making lamb tongues a few times, in this country and in Greece, but found it unrewarding work to peel all those little tongues. One large beef tongue is much more manageable.

Several days ago, Sherry dropped off a plastic bag with a big bloody tongue in it. Because it was fresh, I dreaded the initial shock of seeing it. It didn’t look nearly as bloody and dismembered as I feared, although I felt slightly more queasy preparing it than I usually do preparing meat. In the end, the recipe worked very well.

Here’s the original recipe:

1 3- to 4-pound fresh beef tongue, washed
1 medium carrot
1 medium onion peeled
6 cloves
1 celery stalk
1 leek, trimmed
Grated peel of 1 orange
2 T white vinegar
3 bay leaves
1 bunch fresh thyme
A few peppercorns
2 T coarse salt
1/3 cup butter or pareve margarine
1 T flour
1/2 small tomato, peeled and pureed
1/2 cup white wine
2 T capers
2 T finely diced cornichons (gherkin pickles)
1 bunch of parsley, minced

1. In a large pot, bring 4 quarts of water to a boil. Add tongue and cook for about 20 minutes. Remove tongue and throw out water.

2. In the same pot, add 4 quarts fresh water. Add carrot. Pierce onion with cloves and add to pot, along with celery, leek, orange peel, one tablespoon white vinegar, bay leaves, thyme, peppercorns and salt. Add tongue, bring water to a boil and simmer, for 2 hours, depended on weight of tongue, until it is tender when pierced with a knife. As it cooks, replenish water as needed so tongue remains almost covered.

3. While tongue cooks, melt butter or margarine in a saute pan. Add flour, stirring to make a roux. Add about 1 cup tongue cooking water, the tomato, white wine, remaining tablespoon vinegar, capers, cornichons and a little salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and simmer for about 15 minutes over a low heat, until sauce reduces a bit. Adjust salt and pepper to taste.

4. When tongue is done, turn heat off. When tongue is cool enough to handle, remove, and peel skin with point of a knife. Then cut tongue on diagonal in slices about 1/4-inch thick and arrange on serving platter. Pour sauce over slices and sprinkle with parsley.

My adjustments:

I followed the recipe pretty closely, except for a few details. The tongue Sherry gave me weighed 2 1/2 pounds, but I didn’t reduce any of the ingredients. After cooking the tongue for 2 hours — in other words, it took as long as the recipe called for a larger tongue to become tender — I put the cooked tongue in a big bowl and strained the cooking water over it. Then I stored it in the refrigerator for two days.

Last night, I removed the tongue from the liquid, poured out and set aside two cups of the tongue broth (just to be sure I had enough) and disposed of the rest. I made the roux, added one cup of the tongue broth as well as the other ingredients, and proceeded as the recipe directed. But I added a handful of parsley to the sauce at the end.

Slicing the tongue takes practice. I cut off much of the meat and fat under the tongue and put it in my scrap container for the dogs. Anything that didn’t look appetizing I sliced off. That still left quite a bit of the meat.

I warmed up some of the slices, poured a bit of sauce over it, and sprinkled chopped parsley over it.


Last thoughts:

Next time, I think I’ll make a roux according to another recipe. This was fine, but I’d like to experiment. One bunch of chopped parsley was excessive, so I cut back on that. I’m glad I made this and would probably make it again.

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Thomas Keller’s Braised Beef with Red Wine

img_9247.jpgfrom Bouchon.

Executing a Thomas Keller recipe well is not for the fiscally faint of heart. A recipe that calls for expensive cuts of beef and homemade veal stock would deter most homecooks, especially those on a budget. Nevertheless, I maintain that Bouchon is a cookbook suited to the homecook who seeks to please guests with unpretentious food. The preparation may reek of pretension, but the goal is to efface the effort before the dish arrives at table. Formality does not belong in the home. Formal home dinners tend to be over-prepared, fussy affairs that position the food, instead of sociability, at the center of the event and make everyone, especially the cook, uncomfortable and unable to live up to expectations. I want my food to make people feel like they are in a home, not in a restaurant. Keller offers a way to impose the high standards he sets in his kitchen on food that ought to make people relaxed, satisfied, and animated. But, for most of us, learning to meet his standards is an on-going education.

Instead of beginning with the long recipe as Keller sets it out on the page, I will go straight to my adaptation. And, with no apologies, I have considerably adapted his recipes. As I observed in my first Keller recipe, he places great emphasis on purity and impurities. The point is to prepare each component of the dish separately in order to make each one distinct in flavor. I am convinced he is correct. Begin the stock four days before you plan to serve this meal and the short ribs 2-3 days before the meal. Believe me, this is a project.

So, here begins a long entry, beginning with the recipe as it appears in the book:

Veal Stock

5 lbs veal bones
4 oz tomato paste
6 oz (1 1/4 cups) carrots cut into 1-inch chunks
8 oz (2 cups) leeks cut into 1-inch chunks, white and light green parts only
4 oz (3/4 c) onion cut into 1-inch chunks
1 head garlic, cut horizontally in half (reserve half for another use) broken into pieces, root ends and excess skin removed
3/4 oz (about 18 sprigs) Italian parsley sprigs
1/4 oz (18 to 20) thyme sprigs
2 bay leaves
8 oz (1 1/4 cups) diced tomatoes

Rinse the bones in cold water and place them in a very large stockpot. Fill the pot with cold water, adding at least twice as much water as bones. Slowly bring the water to a simmer; this coagulates the blood proteins and brings other impurities to the surface. Move the bones around from time to time as the liquid comes to a simmer, but do not stir; this would disperse the impurities. Skim off the scum that rises to the surface. As soon as the liquid comes to a simmer, remove the pot from the heat. (If you continue to blanch bones, you will draw out more flavor than necessary.)

Drain the bones in a large colander and rinse with cold water to remove any scum. It is important that the bones be rinsed while they are hot; if they are allowed to cool first, the impurities will cling to the bones and go into your stock.

Thoroughly clean the stockpot and return the bones to it. Add 6 quarts cold water and slowly bring the water to a simmer. This will take 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Skim continuously! (It is easier to skim before the aromatics are added, and the more you skim, the clearer the stock.)

Once the liquid is at a simmer, skim and then stir in the tomato paste. Add the remaining ingredients, bring the liquid back to a simmer, and simmer for 4 hours: Skim, skim, skim. Turn off the heat and allow the stock to rest for 10 minutes.

Strain the stock into a big bowl through a fine-meshed colander. Do not press the solids in the strainer. Return the stock to the cleaned stockpot. Slowly bring to a simmer and simmer until the stock is reduced to 2 quarts. It should have a rich brown color.

Red wine reduction

1 bottle red wine, such as a cabernet sauvignon
1 cup diced onions
1 cup sliced peeled carrots
1 cup sliced leeks, white and light green parts only
1 cup sliced shallots
1 cup sliced button mushrooms
3 thyme sprigs
6 Italian parsley sprigs
2 bay leaves
1/2 tsp black peppercorns
3 large garlic cloves, skin left on, smashed

Combine all the ingredients in a large heavy ovenproof pot with a lid that will hold the meat in a single, or no more than a double, layer. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer for 45 to 50 minutes, or until the wine has reduced to a glaze. [My gloss on this: I reduced the wine about as far as it would go, but it did not end up with the consistency of a glaze. Once I strain it and it spent the night in the fridge, it appeared more like a glaze. But not at this point.]

Beef

2 3/4 lbs boneless short ribs (about 1 inch thick)
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
vegetable, canola or grapeseed oil
1 cup diced yellow onions
2/3 cup sliced peeled carrots
1 1/2 cups sliced leeks, white and light green parts only
2 garlic cloves, skin left on, smashed
3 thyme sprigs
3 italian parsley sprigs
2 bay leaves
About 4 cups Veal Stock [or in a pinch, let’s face it, beef stock]

Trim away excess fat and any silver skin from the short ribs. Cut the meat into pieces approximately 1 1/2 to 2 inches by 1 inch thick.

Line a baking sheet with paper towels. Season all side of the meat with salt and pepper. Heat 1/8 inch of oil in a large sauté pan over high heat. When the oil is hot, add only as many pieces of meat as will fit comfortably in a single layer; do not crowd the pan or the meat will steam rather than brown. Once the meat has browned on the first side, turn it and continue to brown the meat on all sides, about 5 minutes total. Transfer the meat to the paper towel-lined baking sheet. Brown the remaining meat in batches, adding more oil to the pan as necessary.

Preheat oven to 350.

Add the onions, carrots, leeks, garlic, thyme, parsley, and bay leaves to the reduction and toss together. Cut a piece of cheesecloth that is about 4 inches larger than the diameter of the pot. Wet the cheesecloth and wring dry. Place the cloth over the vegetables and fold over the edges to form a “nest” for the meat. (The cheesecloth will allow the liquid to flavor and cook the meat but prevent bits of vegetable and herbs from clinging to it.) Place the short ribs on the cheesecloth and add enough stock to come just to the top of the meat.

It is important that the liquid doesn’t evaporate too quickly. If the pot does not have a tight-fitting lid, cut kitchen parchment to cover the meat under the lid. Bring the liquid to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cover the meat with the parchment lid, if using, then cover the pot with the lid. Place in the oven and reduce the heat to 325. Braise the beef for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, or until the meat is very tender.

Transfer the meat to an ovenproof pot or container. Remove and discard the cheesecloth. Strain the braising liquid twice through a fine strainer or a medium strainer with a clean dampened tea towel or cheesecloth, straining it the second time into a saucepan. Discard the vegetables. Bring the liquid to a boil, spooning off the fat as it rises to the top. Strain the liquid over the beef. Let it cool, then cover and refrigerate for at least 1 day, or up to 3 days.

Garnishes

8 oz fingerling potatoes, preferably small
1 T kosher salt
1/4 tsp black peppercorns
2 thyme sprigs
1 bay leaf
2 garlic cloves, skin left on, smashed

If the the potatoes are small (less than 1 ounce each), leave them whole. Otherwise cut them into 1/2-inch thick slices. Place in a large saucepan, along with the salt, peppercorns, thyme, bay leaf, and garlic and add cold water to cover the potatoes by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10 to 15 mins, or until the potatoes are tender. Drain the potatoes and transfer to a plate. Discard the seasonings. Once they are cool, slice the whole potatoes lengthwise in half. Set aside.

16 baby carrots
1 T kosher salt
1 tsp black peppercorns
4 thyme sprigs
2 bay leaves
2 garlic cloves, skin left on, smashed

Peel the carrots and trim the tops. Cut the carrots lengthwise in half. Place in a saucepan, add the ingredients, and cover with about 1 1/2 inches of water. Place over high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer the carrots for 4 to 5 mins. Drain the carrots and transfer to a plate to cool. Discard the seasonings.

4 oz slab bacon cut into lardons
32 small button mushrooms, cleaned
2 T unsalted butter
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Crisp the lardons in a frying pan; transfer to paper towel to drain of fat.

Trim away the mushroom stems flush with the caps. Heat the butter in a large skillet over high heat. Add the mushrooms, reduce the heat to medium low, season with salt and pepper to taste, and cook gently, tossing often, until the mushrooms are lightly browned and tender throughout, 2 to 3 minutes. Set aside.

Putting it all together

24 pearl onions, peeled and trimmed
2 T chopped Italian parsley

Preheat oven to 250.

Place the container with the beef in the oven for a few minutes just to liquefy the stock. Remove from the oven and turn the oven up to 400. Carefully remove the pieces of beef to a deep ovenproof sauté pan. Strain the liquid over the beef.

Place the pan in the oven and warm the beef for about 5 mins, basting occasionally with the cooking liquid. Add the potatoes, carrots, mushrooms, and onions and toss gently. Return to the oven for an additional 5 to 10 mins, or until the vegetables and meat are hot.

Meanwhile, rewarm the lardons in a small skilet.

Remove the sauté pan from the oven and gently toss in the parsley. With a slotted spoon, divide the meat and vegetables among serving plates or bowls. Spoon some of the sauce over each serving. Distribute the lardons among the plates. Serve with Dijon mustard, if preferred.

Last thoughts

I was happy with how this dish turned out, although I expected the wine reduction to be more dense. However, the flavors were satisfyingly complex. I scraped off the remaining fat that had congealed after two days in the fridge. When it came time to eat, I served it with the NYT’s Slow-Rise Bread, a salad of greens with a tarragon-dijon vinaigrette, and an apple crumble tart with vanilla ice cream. A meal that is far more complex than a list of its parts would appear.