from Italian Easy: Recipes from the London River Cafe, p. 138.

When I see something fresh and unusual at the market, I am confident that one of my cookbooks will tell me what to do with it. A few days ago, I saw fresh, whole sardines in the seafood case. In this case, I was certain I had a recipe in Rose Gray’s Easy Italian Cooking, which I have used only occasionally. The recipe is drop-dead simple. Eating the first without ingesting small bones turns out to be a touch trickier — but not so tricky that it would discourage me from making them again.

I have to confess that I broke the Law According to Michael Pollan (LAMP): I bought cherry tomatoes at Costco in January. Printed on the container was the claim that they had been grown in the United States. This year? Where in this country was it hot enough in the last month to grow cherry tomatoes? My conscience vibrated with alarm for a few seconds. However, despite my moral qualms, I bought them. I have to say, they weren’t horrible. That’s the best I can say. The sardines were tasty and distinctly sardine-y in flavor. The saltiness of the olives complemented the flavor of the sea. The lemon brightened the whole dish like a ray of sun. Removing the head and lift the spinal column of bones from between the facing fillets of flesh were simple.

So, when you see fresh sardines in your market…

24 sardines

18 oz cherry tomatoes

2 oz black olives

4 lemons

extra virgin olive oil

Shadowcook: About the ingredients, 24 sardines seems like a lot for even four people, but perfect for eight. I bought two for myself and it was plenty. Judge for yourself how many cherry tomatoes and olives you want.

Heat the oven to 400 F.

Pierce the tomatoes with a fork. Toss with olive oil, season and bake for 15 minutes.

Pit the olives and grate the peel of 2 lemons.

Use a baking dish large enough to hold the sardines in one layer, and drizzle with olive oil. Place the sardines in the dish, side by side, and season. Sprinkle over the lemon zest, olives, and tomatoes and drizzle with olive oil. Bake for 10 minutes. Serve with lemon.

Shadowcook: It really is that simple.

Over the past year, I’ve written fewer posts than I did over the previous year. I certainly wasn’t cooking less. In fact, last year my weight crept up to a weight I haven’t weighed in about eight years. I’m unhappy about the weight gain, but for the first time in my life, I’m not allowing it to drag my spirits down. For one thing, I’m healthy. For another, I exercise. My portions do not quite push the limits of gluttony. I’m eating as much or as little as my naturally lithe friends who are also in their 50s. Yet there’s no denying that my hobby — cooking — has its consequences.

According to recent studies, I should be eating less as I grow older, but I’m too interested in food to give up the pleasure of cooking for myself. It is inconceivable to me not to cook for myself because I live alone. Eating more green leaves and less meat constitute my primary methods of following the most current heath and diet advice. And I’m now growing as much of it as I can. Last night, I cut off a few clusters of broccoli heads on the thick stalks that are now supine after the wind storm. I made Alice Waters’ Slow-Cooked Broccoli and eat it over pasta. It was more satisfying for having grown it than it was for the flavor, which, don’t get me wrong, was good.

But the reason I haven’t been posting as often this past year has everything to do with fair use. I tend to use the same cookbooks over and over, the Gourmet Cookbook especially. There are only so many recipes I can post here without undermining my intention to persuade people to buy the books.

I’m pleased that Shadowcook keeps drawing people who are looking online for solutions. The North Carolina Pulled Pork, the Memphis-style ribs, the Slow-Grilled Lamb Shoulder, Thomas Keller’s chicken broth, and the various pork belly recipes are the biggest draws. Few comments, which means people read and run. It means that my blog is achieving what I meant it to: I’m the one who tries it first and then reports on the traps, snares, and pitfalls. I’ve never made a claim that I was a great cook. I’m pretty good, but not outstanding. My greatest culinary virtues consist of the willingness to eat just about anything and the audacity to attempt making just about anything.

In a week, I leave for a month in Paris. I’ll be renting an apartment in Montmartre, a part of the city I am a complete stranger to. While there, I’ll report on some restaurants and markets that I find. I’m going there with a couple of requests for obscure kitchen utensils so that means I’ll be visiting cookware stores.

À la prochaine…

V Marketplace
6525 Washington Street, A9
Yountville, CA 94599

707.945.1050

Oh, how nice it is to have Michael Chiarello back in Napa Valley! Last year, he opened a new restaurant in Yountville called Bottega that reminds old stalwarts of his legendary tenure at Tra Vigne more than a decade ago (it still survives but is a shadow of its former self). Who does not remember his soulful rabbit pasta? My second visit to Bottega was with the same friends with whom I frequented the long-lamented Tra Vigne, I felt I had run into an old friend. The five of us at table held the menus like hymnals, each of us looking for our favorite psalms. The offerings did not disappoint. Nor did the service.

We each chose a dish — too much food. Here’s what we ate:

  • Pecorino cheese pudding with crispy soft-boiled egg & forno roasted rapini
  • Shaved Brussels Sprout Salad marcona almonds, sieved egg, pecorino, whole citrus vinaigrette
  • Bruschetta Trio Pepperonata, roasted rapini & salsa rossa, carrot & eggplant caponata with goat cheese
  • Polenta Under Glass, caramelized wild mushrooms, balsamic game sauce
  • Potato Gnocchi with duck, fall squash & chesnut ragu, parmigiano reggiano
  • Garlic & Calabrian Chili Roasted Dungeness Crab crab-saffron aïoli, bruschetta
  • Smoked & Braised Natural Short Ribs preserved-lemon spinach, smokey jus

Bottega’s food is rich, luscious, and — as Patrick expressed with feeling — voluptuous. Deep sauces, complex spices, perfect pasta, all served on warmed stoneware ceramic plates. For dessert, two small chocolate soufflés oozed a river of dark lava from their middle.

It’s nice to be excited again about a restaurant in Napa.

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